Category Archives: Beach

Wish you were here…Tofino

We live our lives sometimes on the crossroads between should and must. Also the title of a good book by Elle Luna. A few years back, I watched the “Groundswell” film by the Malloy brothers. The stunning remote waves and brash wilderness called to me. We speak of wills and waves.

Must set the wheels in motion to help orcas in any way possible. Step 1. Apply for an environmental internship from my shop job at Patagonia. The future depends on our actions. We cannot pretend that nothing is happening. We must move away from the fossil fuel debauchery. Luck was on my side. I was awarded an internship to volunteer for the Georgia Strait Alliance in Vancouver, B.C. for five weeks in September-October.

Tasks included gathering signatures in opposition to the Kinder Morgan Pipeline extension, being a presence for GSA at some festivals and other projects, shooting photographs for the Waterfront Initiative and Water’s Edge Day.

This was my first time in Vancouver. An eclectic, diverse city with gorgeous parks hop-skip wilderness, hikes, climbing, sailing, kayaking, skiing and industry at your door step. I was not initially looking to be in a city. The more remote the better for me. For the internship it seemed to make the most sense with having access to the office etc. other folks, getting things done.

One rainy Saturday morning at 7 am, I took the one-hour bus to a three-hour ferry to Salt Spring Island. So excited to visit my friends Snow and Rob, go crab fishing and check out some hikes and the fall fair. Rob entered the smoked Salmon contest and the their daughter Maia showed her dog-in the pet parade in a scarecrow costume no less. Encouraging to see how my friends seamlessly slipped out of L. A. first to Portland then to Bainbridge Island, finally to British Columbia where Snow grew up. Just in time to avoid the shenanigans that our circus is providing back in the good ole U.S. of A. On the ferry back to Van City, I caught a glimpse of full breech and orca family along the ships starboard side. Only the captain and I saw it. It made my trip and my birthday extraordinary.

Tail end of my stay in Vancouver, I had reserved a few days for excursion and again on the bus, to a ferry to Nanaimo. It was a gray, coolish rainy day. Back onto another bus to the B.C. equivalent to the North Shore Tofino. A friend provided a 5.4 wetsuit with a hood, bless her heart! Thank heavens, I had my 3ml booties. No gloves. This is the fairest time for water temps in the area. The first night was spent in this gorgeous botanical garden and the next two in a not-so-splendid motel, but at least it was close to the beach. Would have preferred a sleeping bag and tent but had none of that on this trip.

My friend’s cousin is a heli pilot in B.C.. After a series of messages, he and I had a meal in Kitsilano. We shared stories of travel, surf and I tried to convince him to join me but alas, he had to work. He was generous, funny and kind. He offered to loan me a unique custom board he had stored at a friends in Tofino. Game on.

One girl hits the two-lane highway to catch a few waves in Tofino. The bus droped me off about 1km from the place I was to pick up the board. So happy to meet the wise and bold Giselle Bruhwiler. She was kind as can be. We spoke French as she is from Montreal. Together we chatted about life, love, children and grandchildren, waves, Switzerland and trees. She got me the board, asked Raph to take me to a break he was going to. “I am not coming back this way,” he said. Win some, lose some. Note made for the next trip hopefully with a buddy, camping gear, boards and a rental car. This time I was on foot with a 8’6″ gun-ish type board and a roller bag that was pretty much all wet suit. It poured rain the rest of the day, so I read. When the rain stopped after dinner I took a long walk amidst the trees and stars were so bright.

Next morning I jumped out of bed suited up and traipsed the board over to the beach. It was a large bay. Lots of people. A beginner spot, or several different levels of surf depending how far you are willing to paddle. Eagerly I looked for a left breaking wave. This was my first time surfing in a 5.4 wet suit. Can we say boyant? There were a few hazards the bulb kelp was gigantic and every once in a while a 40′ log. You wouldn’t want to be on the wrong side of that. It wasn’t a big day. Thought I’d only last an hour but it was pretty fun. As usual, lost track of time. Hint: That makes surfing a “MUST.” When I could no longer feel my hands, I decided it was time for a hot shower. A French girl Sarah had to help me get the hood and wet suit off. Now friends for life.

So much of the island I cannot wait to explore further. This was a teaser, teaser, teaser of a trip. At least I made my bottom line — in and out of the water safely. Check.

If you would like to help orcas too or want to find out more about GSA. Also chomping at the bit to watch the next Bruhwiler Country.

 

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Filed under Advice, Beach, Environment, General, Sea Life, Surf Movies, Surfing, Travel

Andy Davis

IMG_3536On the color and form opening of Eye Yi Yi May 25th at Vintage Market Place in Malibu. The opening was a blast, plenty of color, pink flamingos, live music, yummy snacks and drinks. Friendly non-snooty crowd, nice seeing old friends and making new ones. Andy generously auctioned off one of his works to the highest bidder giving the proceeds to West LA/Malibu Surfrider. YAY! There is a variety of so-cal cool paintings and fairly priced prints. Show is running May 26th- July 1st, 2017.

FullSizeRenderAndy’s playful and colorful style reminds me of the word frolic and leaves much up for the imagination in a positive way. These new works do not disappoint. One of my fave’s is the “Wife Aquatic” because a) she is wearing a big hat. I love hats! Or even if I really hate hats, I have surrendered to waring them for sun protection. b) We are aquatic wives, women and girls at SLAG. Check out the show after a surf day at the beach or doing a local hike.

 

 

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Beginner/Intermediate

Have you always wanted to learn to surf? Would you like to take your surfing to the next level? Join Heather Alley and myself for a one week intensive. Space is limited and we are really looking forward to this trip! For more info and to reserve your spot click here.

 

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Just Say No to Spray Sunscreens by Peggy Hall

sprayI just got back from a restful, healing trip to the island of Kauai…a favorite place to enjoy perfect blue skies,
warm water, and breathe in toxic chemicals…Wait…what? Sorry to say that last line is true!

That’s because so many people are duped when it comes to using sunscreen, that they are literally spraying the air with cancer-causing chemicals in an attempt to “protect” their skin.

Here’s what I mean…and why it’s important to you.

Spray sunscreens have become all the rage for some reason (marketing and advertising at its “best”)–which which for the life of me I cannot understand.

Now if you are cringing as you read this because you, too, have been duped into thinking that you are doing something good for yourself–don’t take it personally!

Of course you can put whatever you want to on your skin–just please don’t expose me and other innocent people to the harmful fall out.

Here’s why I personally stay as far away from spray sunscreens as possible.

First of all, when you spray on sunscreen at the beach or pool, most of the product doesn’t even land on your skin. Instead, it is carried off by the wind (to land on me!) and worse–to be breathed in by innocent bystanders.

Why is it so bad to inhale spray sunscreens?

Well, some of you might be old enough to remember when aerosol sprays were banned because they were “destroying the ozone layer”. (Sort of like vintage global warming.)

These days, the sunscreen sprays are far more harmful because they are loaded with cancer-causing chemicals that, when sprayed, create a carcinogenic mist that carries these toxic chemicals right into your lungs, to then be directly absorbed by your blood stream, putting you at risk for lung disease/cancer, liver disease/cancer and other horrid illnesses and conditions.

Sunscreen sprays are are especially harmful to children, whose immune systems are still developing. That means these innocent children are breathing in toxic chemicals that their delicate lungs and liver cannot filter out.

And people wonder why there is such an increase in illness, disease and issues with early puberty, later infertility etc…

The fact that these spray sunscreens contain cancer-causing chemicals  is not my opinion — it is fact.

Read the facts for yourself at http://www.ewg.org

Now grab your sunscreen (yes, even that expensive one you thought was “natural”) and compare it to this list of toxic ingredients.

KEY: Look under the list of “Active Ingredients” — this means the ingredients are active, doing something to change the skin or chemicals in your body.

Oxybenzone: Increases production of free radicals; increases the incidence and frequency of skin tumors
Homosalate: causes severe acne, skin irritation, skin allergies and inflammation
Avobenzone: unstable in sunlight; breaks down into chemicals which damage DNA
Octisalate: pushes more chemicals into skin for greater toxicity
Octocrylene: Increases production of free radicals that damage DNA damage and contributes to the increased incidence of malignant melanomas = CANCER
BHT: contributes to skin tumors and cancer growth
Diethylhexyl 2 6 Naphthalate: causes testicular atrophy
Parabens, including Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylrparaben, Ethlyparaben: these mimic estrogen production; cause problems with ovaries, testicles, infertility,  reproductive issues, thyroid problems.
Octinoxate or Parsol 1789: mimics estrogen in the body, hinders thyroid function
Methoxycinnamate: implicated in cardiovascular disease; make skin more sensitive to the sun, causes allergies; toxic to liver and reproductive organs.
Retinyl palmitate: A type of Vitamin A, when used with sun exposure, this causes more skin tumors to grow, and to grow faster

For now, ditch the spray and do yourself, the environment, and others around you a huge favor!

Living Swell creator Peggy Hall has positively inspired thousands of people just like you to experience an ocean of bright shiny health and happiness by simplifying the ins and outs of what it takes to be naturally healthy and radiant. Peggy is the featured health expert for the ABC Radio Network and is creator of the best-selling Yoga for Surfers instructional DVD series, and the pioneer of the global surf + yoga movement.

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Liz Clark

Calling all co-sailing, surf, adventure enthusiasts. I have been following Captain Liz Clark’s voyage on Swell since she set sail back around ten years ago. At that time she was not a Patagonia Ambassador nor a Nat Geo Adventurer but boy has she earned both those titles. We are so excited to have her stop in Santa Monica. Join us if you can. For her 10 ways to make a better world, click the link above. Hope to see you there!PAT_S16_WsActive_LizClark_SantaMonica

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Filed under Beach, Books, Environment, General, Photos, Sea Life, Surf Movies, Surfing, Travel

Here’s to breaking glassy waves gals!

It has been a long road but thanks to surfers like Lisa Andersen and Layne Beachley and many before. Going all the way back to surfing queens in Hawaii-paving the way, on today’s pro-circuit women and girls are seeing better or more equal prize money. This Swatch/Hurley Pro at Trestles 2015 the women will win equal prize money to their male counterparts for surfing the same waves. Woot Woot! Thank you for listening ASP! Read article here.

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by | September 11, 2015 · 3:59 am

Join Surf Like a Girl to support LA Waterkeeper

This Saturday 4-18-2015 come join us at Paradise Cove, CA for the annual SUP4cleanwater fundraiser. There will be races, raffles and a big beach party after. You can even rent a board from Pro-SUP and all proceeds go to keeping Santa Monica Bay clean.

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